The Undercollar
Now that the body of the coat is basically done, it’s time to begin work on the collar. If you haven’t drafted your collar already, or you want to double check the fit, you can measure the coat around the neck starting at the center back, ensuring both sides are the same size, and that the collar is the correct size as well.

Cut out your collar, and with right sides together, baste the center back seam and sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat for the top collar.

Press both collars open.


It’s necessary to draw the roll line on the undercollar. I find the easiest way is to just cut the collar pattern along the roll line, and then place that on the collar.
If you look carefully, maybe you can see my mistake. I’m not sure why I did this, but I forgot to have the roll line curve back upwards to follow the bottom of the collar.


I’ve marked mine in white, so it’s very difficult to see.

With the roll line digitally enhanced.

Facing Adjustments
Before attaching the undercollar, there are a few minor adjustments to be made to the neck line of the facing.
Turn the coat so that the facing side is up. About 1″ behind the roll line, towards the shoulder side, make a mark 1/2″ from the edge, denoting the seam line. The angle of the roll line on my particular coat made me place the mark fairly close to the shoulder.

Cutting the facing layer only, snip the fabric to the mark.


Now fold the rest of the facing along the neck line under itself, just over 1/2″ from the edge. You want it out of the way so that it doesn’t get caught in the seam when sewing on the undercollar. Baste securely in place.


Attaching the Undercollar
Begin attaching the undercollar by laying the collar on the coat, right sides together, carefully aligning the center back seams of each piece.

Baste from the center back, towards one of the outer edges of the neck.

Since both parts are curved, you’ll have to full the excess evenly with your non-dominant hand as you go.

There should be 1/2″ of the collar extending beyond the cut in the neck of the coat. I didn’t notice it until later but I was a little short here.

Here’s what it should look like.

Repeat for the other half of the collar, basting from the center back towards the neck point. Here’s the entire collar after basting.

Now sew from one end of the collar to the other, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. The stitching begins at the cut you made in the coat and ends at the opposite cut. Be sure to keep the facing out of the way as you sew.

The collar really does not want to lay flat after sewing!

Here again you can see my error, just at the point that I noticed it (after sewing, of course). It’s not really a huge problem if this happens, as long as you have enough to form a seam. But be aware of the reasons for this happening – faulty measuring, stretching various seams when making up, basting incorrectly or differently on each half of the collar, or other user error.

Finally, press the collar up at the seam. As in the toile, the seam is not opened; rather, everything is pressed upwards towards the collar.


From the underside. I think my seams are a little out of alignment – hence the error with the seam allowance earlier!
