Historical Tailoring Masterclasses
Historical Tailoring Masterclasses
Begin by drawing a vertical line 14 inches long. On the right, or bottom of the pocket, square out another line 6 to 7 inches wide. These numbers are both variable according to how long your skirt is, and how large your coat is, but this is a good starting point. Also include the seam …
Begin by drawing the basic shape of the area to be quilted, on pattern paper. I drew the center line, and marked off 4 inches on either side at the top. The length is 6 inches, then I simply completed the triangle. These measurements are completely variable, and you should do what works best for …
Start with the construction line you marked in the beginning of this section. This line indicates the length of the pleat, and can be from 4 to 6 inches long, depending on preference. At the top, mark 1⁄2 inch on either side of this construction line, and complete the dart shape. Baste the dart closed, …
Since the back seam of the skirt is cut on the bias, it’s necessary to reinforce it with some linen. Cut a piece of linen about 1 1⁄2 inches wide by 2 inches longer than the skirt seam. Baste it on with a very slight tension. Trim the bottom edge of the linen by about …
It is time to commence construction of the back skirt, consisting of a self-facing and, which protects the edge of the garment from wear, and a lining. Begin by laying both back pieces, right side up, as shown. The left side should overlap the right on the finished coat.. Take this left piece, and set …
If you have not placed any darts into the skirt, it is then necessary to full some of the fabric at the hip area of the skirt. Place the skirt, right sides together, onto the forepart assembly, and tack down the end near the pleat area. Note how the side piece extends a 1⁄4 inch …
As you may have seen during the fitting, the gorge dart is necessary to a good fit and roll of the lapel. After the coat has been taken apart again, you should re- chalk the lines of the lapel dart for more accuracy. This is a scary step, but if you’ve done everything correctly and …
Breast pockets are a feature not found on all original coats. If you wish to have a breast pocket, and the coat you are basing yours on has one, then follow this section. If not, you may skip to the section on the Gorge Dart. This breast pocket can also be used on waistcoats, just …
At this point, you will baste together all pieces of the garment by hand, to test for fit one last time. Normally, in a skeleton baste, the tailor would baste in the padding, linings, and collar as well. Since you have yet to learn how to construct these pieces, we will forgo them for now. …
Remarking the Roll Line It’s likely that while shrinking the front edge of the forepart, that the roll line was nudged out of shape. At this point, take a straight edge and remark the roll line, then replace the marking tacks with new ones. Darts On the wrong sides, on both the skirts (if used) …
