Double Breasted Frock Coat

Baste over the excess fabric in the skirt, forming a self facing. Along the cut edge, place another row of basting stitches, to ensure everything is in place and to prevent movement when cross stitching later on. Continue basting over the wool to the canvas. Do not pull tightly, but allow the wool to roll …

The front edge of the coat must now be finished off. Begin by marking a line about two inches away from the stay tape, on the skirt. At the top of the skirt, mark a line, starting from the stay tape at 1⁄2” below the edge, tapering upwards as you go, to match the rise …

After the padding is completed, lay the lapels out flat, canvas side up, and press them over a tailor’s ham. This will help smooth out any puckers or slight wrinkles, and generally firm everything up. After padding the lapels, the edges of the canvas need to have linen stay tape applied, to provide a firm …

Now is the last chance to adjust the roll line of the lapel. If you wish, baste together the coat again, reinforcing the neck and armscye with stay tape, and double check the roll line. You may wish to adjust the depth. This is a completely optional step. When satisfied with the position of the …

Installing the canvas is a very important step. As you baste the canvas in place, all slack in the wool forepart must be eliminated, or it will show up in the finished coat. First, lay the forepart over the canvas, with the linen side of the canvas against the wrong side of the coat, so …

We will now begin construction of the canvas – a large amount of work even by itself. Allow at least eight hours for constructing the two halves of the canvas. Cut out the two center front darts, as well as the lapel dart, directly on the construction lines you drew. Stoat each dart closed, holding …

It is time to prepare and install the Canvas. All of the iron work you put into the forepart of the coat needs to be reinforced and secured by shaping in the canvas, making it a very important part of the coat. To begin, place your paper forepart pattern on the pre-shrunk canvas. You should …

Now turn the coat to the right side, and baste the pleat closed. If you want a pressed pleat, now is the time to give it a good pressing over a ham. I have chose not to press mine, and will instead leave it to hang freely. Turn to the inside of the coat, and …

Interior Plait Pockets The interior plait pockets are a little more involved, construction wise. At the top, very carefully clip the skirt seam allowance, 3/16 inch from the edge of the center back seam. This will help reduce bulk in this area, as otherwise you can have 6 or 7 layers in this area, giving …

We’ll begin with the construction of the exterior plait pockets. Skip this section if you are doing exterior pockets. Begin by cutting out two pieces of polished cotton for each pocket bag. These are cut separate with the seam allowance you added when drafting. Make sure you mark the darts at the top in chalk, …