Double Breasted Frock Coat

Before lining the skirt, there is a decision to be made. The skirt lining can either be left hanging free at the bottom, or felled. The skirt should be allowed to hang free if you cut a fuller skirt, and did not press the plaits in the back. This will allow the skirt to drape …

In this module, you will learn how to install the lining assemblies you’ve worked so hard on. This will use the higher end method of construction, to give us much more control over our work. The linings are secured in more locations, giving the strength necessary to support the heavy quilting. Installing the Forepart Lining …

For each button, cut out the main silk piece. If desired, you can add a 1⁄4 inch seam allowance, to turn and press under, especially if your fabric frays easily. Cut a piece of linen the same diameter as the button. Finally, cut a piece of broadcloth slightly smaller than the button mold, used for …

We’ll take a detour from the coat itself, and focus on constructing cloth covered buttons in this module. Cloth buttons were very commonly used on frock coats during the period. Of about one dozen original frock coats I have examined, all of them had cloth covered buttons, either in self fabric, or a matching silk. …

It’s time to construct the interior breast pockets. These are known as ‘jeatted pockets’ in the tailoring trade, and consist of two ‘jeatings’ on the top and bottom of the pocket opening. These are one of the most basic pockets, and with practice, you’ll be able to create all kinds of variations. I highly recommend …

There are many different quilting designs you can do for an 1860s coat, and I will demonstrate a few of those for you. The quilting will go from the most basic, to much more elaborate, so do what you are most comfortable with. You can always practice on scraps, if you wish. Quilting should stop …

Begin by placing the smallest piece of padding onto the middle sized piece if you have one, and basting around the edge to hold it in place. If not using the middle layer of padding, baste it directly to the main padding piece, about at the level of the armscye, where the chest is fullest. …

Now we will form the pattern for our interlining. First take your forepart pattern and tape it back to the facing piece, not including the seam allowance you added there. Do the same with the sidebody pattern, and tape it to the forepart as well. Align the seam allowance here, not the edge of the …

In this module, we will construct and quilt the lining for the frock coat. Quilting the lining has couple of purposes. One is to give more shape to the chest. As you layer the pieces together, you will be helping to get that pigeon-breasted look so common to the period. The quilting itself will also …

If you recall, we left the breast pocket in an unfinished state while we inserted the canvas. Now that the canvas is in place, we have a firm surface to tack the ends of the pocket to. Begin by chalking the ends of the pocket. These can either be parallel to the grain line, or …