Selvedge Denim Jeans
Welcome to the Selvedge Denim Jeans class! There are actually three types of jeans you can make using this course. The first is a traditional and strict reproduction of the original 1873 jeans which has some specific features such as a gathered seat in the back, two piece riveted fly, raw / hand felled edges, and most of the seams are simply pressed in one direction and top stitched closed.
The second is a modern pair of jeans, using the best techniques I could find as I developed my own bespoke jeans. These feature the superior one piece button fly, felled seams, belt loops (if you want), and everything you’d expect in a modern pair of jeans. You can also cut them as high or low as you want and really make them your own.
Finally, there’s the hybrid method of construction, where you take the modern pattern and use some of the 1873 methods for sewing the seams to prevent bulky layers. I believe the modern pair has 16 layers of denim at two points, while the 1873 only has 6 – 8 layers, so this is a lot easier on home sewing machines. It’s a good option for those who need it.
Another coming option (hopefully it’ll be done sometime in October) is a third fly alternative, the zipper fly. I’m not really a fan of this as it seems to be the weakest of the three options, but I know a lot of people do like them these days.
Supplies
- A good sewing machine, an old Singer or industrial type machine. Home machines can work okay if you use a lighter weight denim and use the 1873 construction method to minimize layers.
- Jeans needles
- Seam jumper for the bulky seams
- Paper for drafting
- Quilting ruler
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Cotton muslin for fitting
- 4 yards selvedge denim 12oz or lighter if this is your first pair
- Cotton jeans thread
- Cotton twill pocketing
- Rivets and setting tool (have a source for these)
- Doughnut buttons and setting tool
- Buckle for adjustment belt
- Optional leather for reinforcing buttons and rivets
- Optional ½” leather punch
- 3/16” leather punch (1/8″ will work too) for buttonholes
- 1/2″ chisel
- Buttonhole Twist
- Iron (household iron works fine)
1873 Jeans
Photos coming soon
Modern Jeans
