Drafting 1860s Frock Coats

Draft an 1860s Frock Coat

Welcome to my course on drafting a mid-19th century frock coat based on Louis Devere’s 1866 system of drafting. This is the foundational course for other future offerings, in that it will give you a nicely-fitted pattern to work with.

I’ve seen a lot of major problems with typical frock coats in the living history world, though they have been getting better in the past few years, thankfully. Some of these problems include: using a modern pattern and attempting to alter it – easily recognized by the seam lines and the way the coat hangs in the front and at the shoulders; oversized shoulders and armscyes, caused by using an unfitted pattern; and an excess of fabric around the chest and back in order to fit a larger range of people with one pattern. There are other errors, of course – but we will attempt to rectify them through this course and improve the standards by setting a good example to those around us.

We will be learning how to draft both a single and double-breasted frock coat, appropriate for the 1860s period. Afterwards, you will have the knowledge to adopt the patterns to other eras, in particular the 1840s and ’50s. If you get through this draft, the others in Devere’s manual will be that much easier for you, and it is an easy matter to adjust the draft to other styles. Also included with this book are a set of Graduated Rulers. You should print out the sizes you need on a large format printer, such as at Staples or other print shops. I’ll teach you how to use the rulers throughout the course of this book. And for your convenience, there are also spreadsheets for aiding those who don’t wish to use the graduated rulers.