Double-Breasted Waistcoat

Take the other half of the pocket bag and fold under one long edge to the wrong side by 1/4″ to 1/2″ – doesn’t really matter as long as you have a deep enough pocket. Baste the pocket back to the pocket welt, wrong sides together, about 1/4″ below the top, or at least covering …

Now we’ll begin to form and reinforce the pocket welt to help it last a long time through all the abuse that will be thrown at it. First, cut a strip of linen on the grain, a little longer and wider than the pocket welt itself. Baste the linen to the wrong side of the …

Now that all the preparatory work is out of the way, we can carefully begin to cut the pockets open. First, fold the pocket in half along its length, aligning what will be the pocket opening as closely as possible. Then take a single cut with the scissors, about 1/4″ deep, from the folded edge, …

With the pocket areas reinforced, we can begin working on the pockets themselves. Although the waist pockets and breast pockets are constructed identically, there are a few slight changes in the breast pocket due to the steeper angle, so we’ll begin with the waist pockets. If you’ve never made a pocket like this before, I …

Before installing the pockets, it’s a good idea to reinforce the area around them with linen stays, particular in more delicate fabrics like silk. In addition, since the pockets are on a slight bias, these stays prevent any unwanted stretching. First, begin by finalizing the position of the pockets on the wrong side of each …

Next we’ll install the under collar onto the waistcoat forepart. Lay the collar on top of the forepart, right sides together, and ensure that the proper, shallower edge of the collar is next to the neck line. Align the bottom of the collar so that the 3/8″ seam allowance meets the edge of the forepart. …

I like to transfer the darts to the remaining side of the forepart by just tracing them with the original pattern, rather than using the tailor’s tacks. It seems to be a little more accurate, and quicker as well. Fold each of the darts in half, aligning the sides as closely as you can. Shown …

It’s time to final begin cutting and constructing the waistcoat! Lay your forepart pattern piece on the doubled fabric, aligning the grain lines with the edge of the fabric. I use a quilting ruler to aid in this. Ideally you’d have your pattern laid out closer to the edge to save fabric – I was …