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Historical Tailoring Masterclasses

Historical Tailoring Masterclasses

Historical Tailoring Masterclasses

  • Shirts and Techniques
  • Trousers and Waistcoats
  • Coats
  • Community (New!)
  • Pockets
  • The Canvas
  • Quilting the Lining
  • Cloth-Covered Buttons
  • Installing the Lining
  • The Collar
  • The Sleeves
  • Trimmings

Double Breasted Frock Coat

Trimming the Coat

February 14, 2020 by James Williams

There are a few different methods of trimming the coat. I will go over them briefly, and you can choose whichever you prefer. Bound Edge The first is called the bound edge, and was often done in silk, or in wool. Since mine is a more upper class coat, I’ve chosen silk. Cut a piece …

Read moreTrimming the Coat

Collar Tab

February 14, 2020 by James Williams

Bar Tack the Pockets It’s a good idea to put a little bar tack at the bottom of each interior pleat pocket opening, if you have them. This will keep stitches from tearing out over time. Sorry, I didn’t take a photo of this for some reason. Please let me know if you need clarification. …

Read moreCollar Tab

Completing the Skirts

February 14, 2020 by James Williams

There are just a few more steps until your coat is done! First, we’ll take a look at the bottom of the back skirt lining, which is still hanging free. The raw edge was cut a little longer than needed, in case of error during construction. Lay the coat out flat on the table, and …

Read moreCompleting the Skirts

Setting the Lining

February 14, 2020 by James Williams

Press the top edge of the sleeve lining over to the wrong side, using a 1⁄4 inch seam. Place shirring stitches along the top of the sleeve head. I only did one row, but feel free to do all three rows if you need more control. Baste the bottom edge of the lining to the …

Read moreSetting the Lining

Setting the Sleeves

February 14, 2020 by James Williams

Setting the sleeves can be tricky at first, but there are a couple of steps we can take to make things easier. Due to the amount of ease put in Devere’s sleeves, and the weight of the fabric used, it is difficult to ease in the fabric nicely without some help. Begin by making three …

Read moreSetting the Sleeves

Sleeve Lining

February 14, 2020 by James Williams

We’ll now begin constructing and inserting the sleeve linings. These are cut from the same pattern as the sleeve, however some additional allowances need to be made on the seams. On the front and rear seams, add 1/8 of an inch to the seam allowance. At the very top at the sleevehead on both pieces, …

Read moreSleeve Lining

Forming the Cuffs

February 14, 2020 by James Williams

On the under sleeve inlay, fold over 3/8” of fabric and baste in place. Press. On the top sleeve, draw a chalk line continuing the seam line – not the inlay line – of the sleeve down to the bottom of the cuff inlay. Draw another line horizontally, continuing the angle of the bottom of …

Read moreForming the Cuffs

Construction

February 14, 2020 by James Williams

Begin by basting the under sleeve to the top sleeve along the shallower front seam. Sew the seam with a 1⁄4 inch seam allowance, remove basting stitches, and press. Cut a strip of pocketing or polished cotton on the bias, about 5 inches wide, and long enough to cover the bottom of the sleeve. Stretch …

Read moreConstruction

Completing the Collar

November 12, 2019 by James Williams

The first step in completing the collar is to sew down the gorge line. If you look, you’ll notice a junction of three separate seams, from the lapel, collar, and gorge line. Begin by knotting your thread and securing it at this point, in between the layers. Note how there are two folded edges facing …

Read moreCompleting the Collar

Securing the Lining

November 12, 2019 by James Williams

It’s now time to further baste down the lining, in preparation for the final stitching. Like the canvas, the lining has likely loosened from work on the collar. Along the neck edge, baste the lining in place, smoothing with your fingers underneath. Do the same along the center of the shoulder. Complete the initial basting …

Read moreSecuring the Lining
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Inspiration

“Never be in a hurry; do everything quietly and in a calm spirit. Do not lose your inner peace for anything whatsoever, even if your whole world seems upset.”

Saint Francis de Sales

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