Double Breasted Frock Coat

There are a few different methods of trimming the coat. I will go over them briefly, and you can choose whichever you prefer. Bound Edge The first is called the bound edge, and was often done in silk, or in wool. Since mine is a more upper class coat, I’ve chosen silk. Cut a piece …

Bar Tack the Pockets It’s a good idea to put a little bar tack at the bottom of each interior pleat pocket opening, if you have them. This will keep stitches from tearing out over time. Sorry, I didn’t take a photo of this for some reason. Please let me know if you need clarification. …

There are just a few more steps until your coat is done! First, we’ll take a look at the bottom of the back skirt lining, which is still hanging free. The raw edge was cut a little longer than needed, in case of error during construction. Lay the coat out flat on the table, and …

Press the top edge of the sleeve lining over to the wrong side, using a 1⁄4 inch seam. Place shirring stitches along the top of the sleeve head. I only did one row, but feel free to do all three rows if you need more control. Baste the bottom edge of the lining to the …

Setting the sleeves can be tricky at first, but there are a couple of steps we can take to make things easier. Due to the amount of ease put in Devere’s sleeves, and the weight of the fabric used, it is difficult to ease in the fabric nicely without some help. Begin by making three …

We’ll now begin constructing and inserting the sleeve linings. These are cut from the same pattern as the sleeve, however some additional allowances need to be made on the seams. On the front and rear seams, add 1/8 of an inch to the seam allowance. At the very top at the sleevehead on both pieces, …

On the under sleeve inlay, fold over 3/8” of fabric and baste in place. Press. On the top sleeve, draw a chalk line continuing the seam line – not the inlay line – of the sleeve down to the bottom of the cuff inlay. Draw another line horizontally, continuing the angle of the bottom of …

Begin by basting the under sleeve to the top sleeve along the shallower front seam. Sew the seam with a 1⁄4 inch seam allowance, remove basting stitches, and press. Cut a strip of pocketing or polished cotton on the bias, about 5 inches wide, and long enough to cover the bottom of the sleeve. Stretch …

The first step in completing the collar is to sew down the gorge line. If you look, you’ll notice a junction of three separate seams, from the lapel, collar, and gorge line. Begin by knotting your thread and securing it at this point, in between the layers. Note how there are two folded edges facing …

It’s now time to further baste down the lining, in preparation for the final stitching. Like the canvas, the lining has likely loosened from work on the collar. Along the neck edge, baste the lining in place, smoothing with your fingers underneath. Do the same along the center of the shoulder. Complete the initial basting …