Historical Tailoring Masterclasses
Historical Tailoring Masterclasses
A waistband was usually found in the back of trousers to help adjust the fit as well as take stress off of the top of the seat seam. Begin by cutting out two each of fashion fabric, lining, and optionally, linen. The linen is a good way to reinforce the belt, but is completely optional, …
It’s a good idea to reinforce various stress points with bar tacks, especially if you have not done so on machine. I’ll be adding a bar tack to each side of my watch pocket, the back of the trousers at the split in the seat seam, and the bottom of the fly. You could also …
At last we can begin to sew the inseams and seat seam, turning our work into something that actually looks like a pair of trousers. To begin work on the inseam, lay one leg in front of you, folded right sides together. Pin the inseam together at the fork. There is a bit of excess …
It’s time to complete the waistband with a polished-cotton lining. Begin by laying your trouser half and lining out, right sides down. Lay the lining on the waistband, right sides together, aligning one end so that it overlaps the waistband facing by about an inch. Holding the lining in rough position with one hand, flip …
All that’s left to do is attach the buttons. I prefer to use a silk buttonhole twist here for its durability, but you could use a linen or other such thread, perhaps taking more passes through the button. Transfer the buttonhole positions to the other sides of the placket opening and cuffs. Begin by passing …
One of the last things to do on the shirt is to cut and work the buttonholes. I’ll be using a silk buttonhole twist for mine, but you could also use a linen or cotton thread for a more homemade look. If these are your first buttonholes, I highly recommend going through my in depth …
With the sleeves complete, it’s finally time to attach them to the shirt! I like to begin by laying out the shirt and sleeves, right sides out, with the armscye facing me. Find the bottom of the armscye at the side seam, and the top of the sleeve seam. Align the two points together at …
Before finishing up the sleeve seam, it’s helpful to take a couple of measurements to determine the amount of ease that needs to be gathered into the sleeve head. First, measure the circumference of the armscye. Mine was around 20″. Then measure across the entire sleeve head from side seam to side seam. The photo …
Lay the second cuff piece on top of the half you just attached, right sides together, and baste the first short edge. Now turn the entire sleeve over so that the second half of the cuff is underneath. Use your hand to shape the fabric into a deep curve as you baste along the lower …
If you’re planning to use a larger seam allowance of 1/2″, or 1/4″ finished sleeve seam, as a beginner, just ignore the next step. But if you’d prefer a 1/8″ finished sleeve seam, mark a line 1/4″ from the edge of the sleeve. And trim off the 1/4″. Mark a line on both halves of …
