James Williams

One last thing to do for the hem area is to add a gusset to the bottom of the side seam. This strengthens the area, preventing the seam from ripping open with use. You can begin by drafting or printing the pattern for the gusset. There are other sizes and styles you could draw, but …

Shirts of the period were often hemmed with what is known as a rolled hem, a very narrow – 1/8″ or even less – stitch that rolls the fabric back over itself. It can seem intimidating but once you learn how it works, it becomes second nature very quickly. Begin by trimming the remaining seam …

With the side seam felled, we can begin closing up the lining permanently with a felling stitch. Begin by folding under the remaining raw edge of the front lining just below the armscye, along the side seam. Baste. Begin felling the lining down with a small stitch, 10+ per inch, though it really depends upon …

Before moving on to more interesting areas such as the sleeves, there are a few details to take care of in the shirt body, beginning with felling the side seams. Shirts of the period usually had very small seam allowances – 1/8″ or even less. If you are a beginner or new to shirt making, …

Installing the collar can be a little intimidating at first, but it’s really just a long series of small steps and will become second nature soon enough. Begin by marking the seam allowance (1/2″) at both ends along the bottom edge of the collar, on the wrong side. This will help us attach the collar …

With the lining installed, it’s time to sew the side and shoulder seams together. Begin by laying the front on the back, right sides together, and align the side seam at the armscye. Taking the front only, pull back the edge of the lining at the armscye and pin in place, to keep it out …

Shirts during the 19th century often had a lining in the front and back of the shirt, I’m guessing to help strengthen certain areas. The exact shape could vary from shirt to shirt, so I’ll be using a basic pattern for the front and back linings – feel free to alter the shape. In this …

Construction of the back begins with piecing together the yoke. You should cut two of these (four pieces total), one for the back yoke and one for the lining. Sew the halves of the yoke together at the center back seam and press open. Lay the yoke on top of the back, right sides together. …