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Federal Enlisted Frock Coat Online Class

Create your own beautiful frock coat, from drafting and fitting, through all aspects of construction.

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Federal Enlisted Frock Coat – Online Class

The Federal enlisted frock coat is often regarded as one of the most difficult coats to construct. We’ve all seen those typical shapeless sutler-row versions at various reenactments, but when you compare them to originals both in photograph and in museums, the originals stand out sharply both in their fit and construction and you can’t help but ask yourself, ‘how did they do that’?

In 2009, I was fortunate enough to be tasked with making about two dozen of these coats, all fit for a variety of body shapes. This invaluable experience helped me to figure out the nuances of period fit and construction as I made each coat (and a bunch of mistakes along the way!). At the culmination of this project several years later, I decided to put all of that knowledge to paper and photograph each step so that I could share and preserve this knowledge for others, and so this course was born. The coat is based on a private purchase version.

This course on constructing a Federal enlisted frock coat is held entirely online and at your own pace. When you sign up, you get immediate access to the entire course, so you can dive right in and finish the entire thing in a month or two, take your time and work on it over a year or two, or for you professional procrastinators, take ten or more years if you must (though I hope you do get it finished much more quickly!). You’ll also get personal help from me through email or my support community if you get stuck at any point along the way.

I’m currently offering the course at the original 2011 price for a limited time and those who join will get all future updates. You get the original course in its entirety, and I’m planning to add extensive videos of the entire process as well as update the photographs and some methods in the future as well. Join countless others at this point who’ve successfully completed the course and have made their own frock coats and even gone on to make them professionally for others.

Sign up today!

Who is this course for?

This course is designed for the intermediate to advanced tailor who has some experience with tailoring historical garments. I’d recommend you having made a couple of trousers, waistcoats, and maybe a coat or two, whether they be drafted yourself or from commercial patterns, before attempting this project.

Class Curriculum

Module 1 – Drafting the Pattern

Begin by learning how to draft your pattern using your own measurements and a period drafting system. Then take that pattern and fit it with a muslin toile (take a few photos and James will help you personally!).

Module 2 – Assembling the Body

Assemble the main body of the coat such as the back pleat area, constructing the skirts, and stretching and shrinking the coat with the iron to get a closer fit, to getting everything together for your first fitting.

Module 3 – Pleat Pockets and Canvas

Construct and install the interior pleat pockets in the back of the coat, construct the canvas based on your own particular pattern, and install the canvas to give your coat structure and durability.

Module 4 – The Lining

Cut and assemble the lining, padding, and interlining for the front of the coat. With this firm foundation, quilt the lining to give further shape to the coat.

Module 5 – The Collar

Construct and install the collar almost entirely by hand, using methods to ensure that the collar fits closely yet comfortably around the neck.

Module 6 – The Facings

Close up the body of the coat with the facings, giving the front of your close a sharp, firm edge that will stay in place for the life of the coat.

Module 7 – The Sleeves

Draft, fit and construct the sleeves for your enlisted frock coat, including the pointed cuffs. Use special techniques to ensure the sleeve and cuff lay smoothly around the wrist and arm. Finally, set the sleeves and install the linings.

Module 8 – Final Details

Finally, complete your coat with all of the fine details such as the collar tab for hanging it up, the buttons and buttonholes, and the hooks and eyes along the skirt and collar front.

Sign up today!

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Inspiration

“Never be in a hurry; do everything quietly and in a calm spirit. Do not lose your inner peace for anything whatsoever, even if your whole world seems upset.”

Saint Francis de Sales

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