I highly recommend not drafting the sleeves until you are happy with the fit of the coat and collar. To begin, draw a horizontal line and mark out the following points from 0 with your graduated ruler (according to your breast size still). Square up from point 5 graduated inches from point 0. This gives…
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having a hard time knowing when to use a standard measuring tape as opposed to our devere paper ruller.
on sleeve it says to mark length 26 graduated inches
is that with a regular ruler or with our paper ruler?
my measurement I took on hubby is 24
the measuring tape gives 26
my paper ruler actually measures 28 1/2 which can’t be right
my conclusion is that graduated inches means with a standard tape measure. my measurements still differ by 2″ which will be clarified after doing the muslin fitting methinks
i believe on the collar when it says to measure length of collar standing tape on it’s side it is also NOT our paper graded ruller but a normal tape we are to use.
Ah, sorry, I think I’m going to go through and mark all of the measurements specifically graduated or standard, maybe that’ll help clarify things a little.
The 26 length is in graduated measures, so the paper ruler. Then I recommend measuring that with a regular ruler and comparing it to the sleeve length measurement you took. If you get lucky and are a proportionate size they should line up, but most often there is some discrepancy, so in that case go with your actual measurement.
So in your husband’s case, I’d mark the length of the sleeve to be 24 regular inches to correspond with your measurement. Then you can see how close you are on the muslin.
Yes, on the collar you measure the length with a regular measuring tape.
Hope that helps,
James
no need to be sorry james. you have done an excellent job of giving detailed instructions. Although i have made multiple jackets I have never attempted to draft a pattern and it is about time I did. Would never have done this without your very kind offer of this online course. Thank you.