Welcome to Pleated-Front Shirtmaking! In this course, I will be showing you how to construct an 1860s era shirt using techniques and methods of the period. The shirt will feature a pleated front, button cuffs, a sewn-on collar, as well as the option for a banded collar with accompanying detachable collar. Shirts such as these were very common during the time period, and worn by all classes, though the exact styles and fabrics used would have differed slightly. This is a beginner to intermediate level project, you should have a basic knowledge of stitches, and have put together a few simple projects of your own.
Supplies List
- 4 – 5 yards cotton print or linen for the shirt body (5 – 7 oz linen).
- 1 yard linen for the pleated front, collar, and cuffs (5 – 7 oz).
- Cotton or linen thread for construction.
- Silk buttonhole twist (to match cuffs and shirt front).
- 5 to 8 — 3/8″ bone, mother-of-pearl, or calico buttons (number depends on how many buttons on the front).
The shirt can be constructed in a couple of different ways. 1) 100% linen which is very cool but slightly more expensive. Also more uncomfortable while the shirt is breaking in. 2) 100% cotton. Prints in small repeating patterns are best. Most affordable and comfortable, good for lower class impressions. 3) A mix of both cotton print and linen for the cuffs, collar, and pleated front, which is what I’ll be doing. Best of both worlds in that it is affordable, comfortable and slightly more formal than the cotton variation.
For cotton prints, try searching for Civil War quilting fabrics on various sites like Etsy. I’ve had the most difficult time finding anything decent. We can discuss further in the community to help each other find some nice fabrics.