Construct a Federal enlisted frock coat.
Welcome to the Federal Enlisted Frock Coat masterclass. If you haven’t already, you’ll need to draft and fit your pattern and toile before continuing onto the coat itself. If you’ve got any questions or run into issues, feel free to email me at any time or share your question and progress in the support community.
-James
Supplies
- Wool Kersey or Broadcloth 2.5 – 3.5 yards
- Lining Material (wool, alpaca, linen) 1 yard
- French Collar Canvas 2 yards
- White Cotton Muslin 1 yard
- Wool Batting (Hobb’s Heirloom)
- Interlining or Sacking (red wool flannel or madder red jean cloth) 1 yard
- Brown Polished Cotton 1 yard
- Linen 1/4 yard
- Thread
- Silk Buttonhole Twist
- Light Blue Piping (wool broadcloth or flannel) 1/2 yard
- Waterbury Buttons
— 4 x 1/2 “
— 11 x 7/8″ - Hooks and Eyes 3/8″ x 3
If you’d like a much more thorough, though slightly outdated list, download this pdf:
The Skeleton Baste – Enlisted Frock
Cut and prepare your coat for the first fitting.
Lessons
Inlays Pattern Details Ironwork The Skirt The Skeleton Baste First FittingPlait Pockets and Canvas
Put in the plait pockets and chest canvas.
Lessons
Rear Facings Constructing the Body Halves Drafting the Plait Pockets Plait Pocket Construction Installing the Plait Pockets Cutting the Canvas Installing the Canvas Second FittingThe Lining – Enlisted Frock
Cut and install the coat lining.
Lessons
Cutting the Lining Assembling the Lining Quilting the Lining Installing the Lining Plait Buttons Shoulder Seams Center Back Seam The Back VentThe Collar – Enlisted Frock
Construct the piped collar.
Lessons
Drafting the Collar Constructing the Collar Pressing the Collar Attaching the Collar The Collar Canvas Securing the PipingThe Facings – Enlisted Frock
Install the coat facings and finish the front edges.
Lessons
Pocket and Vent Facing Felling the Lining Trimming the Canvas Trimming the Lining Taping the Front Edges Trimming the Foreparts Finishing the Center Front Cutting the Facings Installing the FacingsThe Buttonholes – Enlisted Frock
Cut and sew the buttonholes by hand.
Lessons
Buttonhole Layout Cutting and Overcasting Four Cord or Gimp The Buttonhole StitchThe Sleeves – Enlisted Frock
Draft and assemble the cuffs and sleeves before inserting them into the armscyes.
Lessons
Sleeve Seam Allowances and Inlays Front Seam Drafting the Cuff Constructing the Cuffs Cuff Piping Assembling the Cuffs Cuff Facings Vent Piping Finishing the Sleeves The Sleeve Lining Setting the Sleeves Setting the LiningFinal Details – Enlisted Frock
Finish up your coat with the hooks and eyes, collar tab, and buttons.