Tailoring Basics

The felling stitch is very commonly used in tailoring, and is perfect for securing linings to fabric, facings, and various other tasks. There are actually three different variations of the stitch, each only slightly different from the other, that are important to learn so that you can choose the best one for your particular situation. …

The back and fore stitch combines the strength of the back stitch with the speed of the running stitch. It’s not quite as fast or as strong as either, but it’s a good compromise for seams that do not take a lot of stress, such as trouser legs, skirt seams, and so on. Start with …

This second version of tacking is similar to the first, except it is meant to mark a single point on your cloth, such as a pocket position or a balance mark. Begin by making a single stitch with a doubled piece of basting thread. Make another stitch in place, forming a loop about an inch …

This first type of tailor’s tack is very useful for marking seams along inlays, darts, and other areas where a chalk mark may wear away too quickly, and for transferring these areas to the other half of the cloth when laying out your pattern. You typically need two layers of fabric to make this stitch …

Straight basting is one of the most basic of stitches yet one of the most useful. It’s used when basting two or more layers of fabric together that you want to be able to remove easily later on. The straight basting stitch is quite similar to a running stitch, only the spacing is different. Each …

The back stitch is the strongest stitch you can use for a seam, and is great for those areas of a project that take a lot of stress. The downside is that it does take a little longer to stitch the seam, but it’s usually worth the effort if you need that strength. Begin with …

The running stitch is the most basic of stitches and forms the basis for a number of other stitches. Surprisingly, it’s not actually used all that much in tailoring, as it is a very weak stitch that will easily break under a little tension. The main uses within the tailoring world are for basting (covered …

Diagonal basting is similar to the straight basting stitches in that it holds multiple layers of fabric together. However, this is a much stronger stitch for those times when you need absolutely no movement. Another benefit is that it allows you to baste awkward areas while maintaining a comfortable position for your hands. Begin by …

Threading a needle can seem very difficult at first, but with a bit of practice it becomes second nature and the thread will go right through the eye on the first try (well, most of the time!). The trick is to pinch the end of your freshly cut (and waxed and pressed) thread between your …

The most important aspect of tailoring by far is proper pressing technique. While poorly done seams can be hidden inside the coat, an unpressed seam can be spotted a mile away and ruin what could have been a nice coat. In this lesson, I’ll teach you how to press a basic seam, whether it’s been …