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Historical Tailoring Masterclasses

Historical Tailoring Masterclasses

Historical Tailoring Masterclasses

  • Shirts and Techniques
  • Trousers and Waistcoats
  • Coats
  • Community (New!)
  • Darts and Lining
  • Pockets
  • The Canvas
  • The Lining
  • Bagging

Shawl-Collared Waistcoat

The Undercollar

September 16, 2019 by James Williams

I like to attach the undercollar next, even before the pockets, to help prevent stretching of the neck during construction. Cut out the collar from brown polished cotton, and mark the roll line. Lay the collar right sides together on the forepart. It’s sometimes very confusing, but if you’ve drawn the roll line in, make …

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Darts or Fishes

September 16, 2019 by James Williams

The first step in the construction process is to close up the darts on the forepart. If you haven’t already, draw the lines for the dart on the side of the forepart that did not receive chalk marks, using the tailor tacks as a guide. Fold the dart in half along the middle, right sides …

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Shawl Waistcoat Toile

September 14, 2019 by James Williams

Now that we have the pattern updated with the styling details, it’s a good idea to make another muslin to check the fit and proportion of the collar and other details. This will also be good practice in assembling the various pieces of the waistcoat. The first step is to transfer the pattern to the …

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Pattern Adjustments

September 14, 2019 by James Williams

Before starting work on the waistcoat, we must make some style adjustments to the basic pattern, which you should have already drafted and fitted. Note that in the following I used dotted lines for the construction lines just to make things easier to see. First, begin by marking the position of the front opening, using …

Read morePattern Adjustments
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Inspiration

“Never be in a hurry; do everything quietly and in a calm spirit. Do not lose your inner peace for anything whatsoever, even if your whole world seems upset.”

Saint Francis de Sales

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