Shawl-Collared Waistcoat

Now that the canvas is securely in place, it is time to work on the edges, in preparation for attaching the linings and facings. By adding stay tape to the edges, we gain a crisper, firmer edge, that will hold up to more abuse and keep the vest in shape longer. Though not pictured, begin …

With the canvas in place, it is time to tack down the pockets permanently. By tacking the pocket ends through the canvas, it helps tie the two together, and provides additional strength for the pockets, which are under a lot of stress. Begin by trimming the end of the pocket  to 1/4″ seam allowance. Starting …

Now that the canvas is complete, it is time to install it onto the waistcoat forepart. This is an important step, and while it may seem tedious, the results are well worth the effort, and will help make the canvas and forepart act as one, enhancing the shape and figure of your waistcoat. Begin by …

Padding the waist is important in order to give shape to the chest area. I like to start with a rectangular piece of wool batting that is roughly the size of the canvas area that I want to pad. Gradually cut away the excess until you are happy with the fit. I like to keep …

Now that the pockets are complete, it is time to work on the canvas. I like to use a firm linen, about 5 or 6 ounces in weight, which compliments the weight of the silk perfectly. The pattern used is exactly the same, with no changes except for the darts, which should be made one …

With the pocket pressed, lay the forepart on the table with the upper pocket bag on the wrong side, and the welt and lower pocket bag on the outside. Cut a piece of linen the width of the finished pocket (5 inches in my case), and the same height as the welt, subtracting one seam …

Now it is time to carefully cut open the pocket. Use extra care here because a mistake can ruin all of your work thus far. Fold the pocket in half, lengthwise, making sure that the pocket line, in between the welt and pocket bag, is aligned underneath. Make a small cut through the folded section, …

Now that the stripes are aligned on the welt as we like, it’s time to move on to the main construction of the pocket. Cut out the pocket bags for each of the pockets. The pockets should be the same width as the welts, and about 3 or 4 inches in depth. You want the …

Now we are ready to proceed with the pocket construction. In my case, I am using a striped fabric, and so will show you how to match the stripes of the pocket to those on the forepart. In period examples of waistcoats, one finds a whole range of diligence in pocket matching. Some are perfectly …

Now that we’ve completed the darts and collar lining, it’s time to move on to the waist and watch pockets on the vest before moving on to the inner workings. First off, we need to reinforce the pocket area with strips of linen. While on some thicker fabrics you might be able to get away …