The rest of the watch pocket goes fairly quickly now that you’ve got the waistband and facings attached and pressed.
Cut a length of linen stay tape 4 1/2″ long and lay it on the linen stay about 1/16″ below the stitch line for the pocket bag.
Baste the linen tape to the trouser front.
Cross stitch the linen stay tape to the trouser front, being sure not to let the stitches show through to the right side.
Now fold the pocket bag over the linen tape, off-setting the seam by 1/16″ to 1/8″ behind the fold, hiding the pocket bag from outside view. Baste securely in place.
Top stitch across the pocket opening, catching the pocket bag underneath, using a machine stitch or a side stitch by hand. Keep the stitches about 1/8″ – 3/16″ away from the edge, so that they land in the middle of the stay tape that is sandwiched between the layers.
If using the side stitch, the needle enters the fabric just to the side of the previous stitch. On the underside, it is formed similar to a normal running stitch. The stitches should be 1/8″ to 1/4″ apart.
Here you can see the wrong side of the side stitches, catching the pocket bag and forming a firm opening for the watch pocket.
The outside of the watch pocket so far. I wish you could see the side stitches but they pretty much disappear into the fabric.
Take the remaining pocket bag half and press over the top edge 1/4″.
Open up the pocket and baste the pocket bag to the right side of the remaining pocket facing, 1/4″ from the edge.
Fell the pocket bag to the pocket facing. Remove the basting stitches.
With both pocket bag halves now attached, grasp both of them, being sure they are aligned properly, particularly at the pocket opening area. Baste across the top of the pocket facing through both pocket bag halves. This holds all the layers in place while we sew the pocket bag closed.
Draw out the seam lines on your pocket, 1/2″ from the edge. Be sure there is at least 1/2″ available on the underside, or you’ll end up like me with no room to turn under the raw edges. Add a couple of curves at each corner as well.
Sew the pocket bag closed, getting as close as you can to the waistband seam at the top without actually hitting it.
Trim the excess fabric from the pocket bag, leaving a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Carefully trim the pocket facing’s seam allowance to 1/4″ on each side, being sure not to cut the pocket bag below.
Fold the raw edges of the pocket bags inwards and press with your fingers as you go. The curved corners can be a little trick but you can perfect them as you overcast / fell the edges in the next step.
Fell or overcast the seam to the facings and along the pocket bag.
And with that the pocket is completed! We’ll tack down the ends of the pocket opening after the interfacing has been installed into the waistband.
One last detail, fold the side seam pocket bag back into place and baste across the top edge, just below the waistband. We’ll finish attaching this after putting in the interfacing as well.
|1||Sew the watch pocket.|