Plain-Cut Trousers

The final task prior to hemming the trousers is to attach the buttons. Begin by laying out the button placement. I transferred their position on the fly first, setting their distance from the fly seam equal to the distance of the buttonholes from the fly edge. Next mark the position of the front suspender buttons …

A waistband was usually found in the back of trousers to help adjust the fit as well as take stress off of the top of the seat seam. Begin by cutting out two each of fashion fabric, lining, and optionally, linen. The linen is a good way to reinforce the belt, but is completely optional, …

It’s a good idea to reinforce various stress points with bar tacks, especially if you have not done so on machine. I’ll be adding a bar tack to each side of my watch pocket, the back of the trousers at the split in the seat seam, and the bottom of the fly. You could also …

At last we can begin to sew the inseams and seat seam, turning our work into something that actually looks like a pair of trousers. To begin work on the inseam, lay one leg in front of you, folded right sides together. Pin the inseam together at the fork. There is a bit of excess …

It’s time to complete the waistband with a polished-cotton lining. Begin by laying your trouser half and lining out, right sides down. Lay the lining on the waistband, right sides together, aligning one end so that it overlaps the waistband facing by about an inch. Holding the lining in rough position with one hand, flip …

The rest of the watch pocket goes fairly quickly now that you’ve got the waistband and facings attached and pressed. Cut a length of linen stay tape 4 1/2″ long and lay it on the linen stay about 1/16″ below the stitch line for the pocket bag. Baste the linen tape to the trouser front. …

With the waistband and pocket facings all basted into position, we can begin to sew everything down permanently. Begin by sewing the pocket bag to the trouser front using a 1/4″ seam allowance, beginning and ending precisely at the pocket opening marks. Be sure to keep the side seam pocket bag out of the way …

Adding a watch pocket to a waistband (usually on the right side) is not too difficult, but is somewhat involved with a lot of steps, so I will break the watch pocket into three sections. This first section will go over basting the pocket facings and waistband into place. Besides the waistband, you’ll need the …

Finally, it’s time to attach the waistbands, which close up the top of the pockets, in a sense completing them. If you are planning to insert a watch pocket on one side, please see the next section on attaching the waistband with a watch pocket. Lay the waistband, wide end at the front of the …

It’s now time to attach the trouser fronts to the backs. Lay out the front on the table, and lay the back over the top, right sides together. Now pin the very top of the side seam at the waist, ensuring that when we baste the side seam, the tops will be aligned properly. Now, …