Before using a new pattern – particularly a historical draft – on your expensive fabric, it’s a good idea to create a muslin toile to check the overall fit and to be sure you aren’t making any major errors.

Note that this is very much a simplified construction designed to get you to the fitting stage quickly, so there will be some slight differences when constructing the final garment.

Begin by taking the cape pieces and marking the fold line for the front button facing 2 graduated inches from the edge (this should already be marked on your pattern). I’ll be treating this as the right side for this toile construction.

Fold and press the fabric along this line, right sides together.

At the neck, draw in the 1/2″ seam allowance across the top of the button facing.

Using a suitable round edge, mark a curve at the top of the button facing from the seam allowance at the top, tapering into the folded front edge.

Sew the facing along the top edge and curve into the folded front edge.

Clip the neck seam to the end of the stitch line, avoiding cutting into the facing.

Trim the seam allowance to about 1/8″ around the curve to the clip.

Turn the button facing right side out and press once more.

Finally, top stitch through both layers along the inner edge of the button facing. You can pin it first if you want to help keep everything in place as you sew.

Repeat the process for the opposite cape.

Turning now to the foreparts, repeat the same process, only starting with a wider button facing of about 2 1/2 graduated inches.

The upper curve has been sewn and clipped here.

And here are both foreparts after turning and top stitching.

Drafting the collar is fairly straight forward, though it does take some artistic expression. Something to be aware of is that when using a larger sized graduated ruler, above around size 45, the collar will start to become ridiculously large – so you’ll need to adjust the heights to a more manageable size. Feel free to contact me for help with that.

To begin, draw out a baseline and mark out the following points from O:

• 0 to 6 graduated inches
• 0 to 10 1/4 graduated inches

Now square upward and mark the following points. This is where you’ll definitely need to adjust those heights for larger sizes.

• 0 to 1 1/2 and 3 1/2 graduated inches
• 10 1/4 to 3/4 graduated inches

Now draw in the neckline. From 3/4 to 6 it’s a gentle curve. From 6 to 0, curve in the opposite direction, about 3/16 to 1/4 graduated inches above the baseline. This compound curve will add some tension to the collar, helping it to hug the neck closely and roll properly.

Now draw in the roll line with a gentle curve from 3/4 to 1 1/2. This line should keep roughly the same distance from the neck line from 6 to 0.

Here’s where the artistic expression comes into play, as there are no real measurements given for this part of the collar.

Starting vertically at 3/4, draw a deep curve, extending the curve a bit higher the 3 1/2 point, and gradually curve into 3 1/2. Continue the line about 3/8 graduated inches beyond 3 1/2.

Draw a gentle curve from the point beyond 3 1/2 to 0, keeping both ends at right angles to their corresponding lines (or as close as possible at least).

Seam allowances for the collar are a bit odd, and we’ll be adding extra material to both the top and under collar when the time comes. For fitting purposes with the toile, simply add 1/2″ seam allowances to both the bottom and center of the collar as shown. Cut out the collar pattern.

On to drafting the front, again draw a vertical line from 0 and mark out the following points.

• 0 to 1 1/2 graduated inches
• 0 to 3 1/2 graduated inches
• From 3 1/2 to the bottom is equal to the back length measurement minus 2 1/2 graduated inches.
• Make another mark 2 1/2 graduated inches from the bottom.
• Measure from 0 to the bottom, and divide it in half to find A.

Square Out

Square out the following points.

• 0 to 4 graduated inches
• 1 1/2 to 3 1/2 to 11 graduated inches
• A to 16 1/2 graduated inches. (originally 18 1/2, scaled down to get a slightly better fit).
• Second line from bottom to 20 graduated inches (originally 24).
• Square out the bottom about 4 graduated inches.

The Curves

Now draw in the following curves:

• 3 1/2 through 3 1/2 to 4 for the neck.
• 4 to 11 in a very slight curve for the shoulder.
• 11 to 16 1/2 forms a very deep armscye of sorts. You’ll want to curve inwards from 11 an inch or two before deepening the curve into 16 1/2.
• 16 1/2 to 20 is a straight line.
• Start with a right angle at 20 curving into the bottom hem at 2 1/2.

Square to the left 2 graduated inches at 3 1/2 and at the bottom and connect the two new points with a vertical line to form the button catch.

Buttonholes

Begin laying out the buttonholes. These should be about 1 to 1 1/4 in length, depending on the button size you choose. The top buttonhole is about 3/4 below the top edge and sits at a 45 degree angled, centered in the button catch area.

The remaining 3 buttons are space 7 graduated inches apart. You may have to adjust this spacing depending upon your size. Just try to space them out equally with the lowest one roughly in the same area as shown.

Pocket Positions

The lower flapped pocket is positioned about 2 graduated inches below the line from A. It begins about 4 graduated inches from the original baseline, and the pocket itself is about 8 graduated inches in width. You’ll definitely want to narrow it a little on the larger sizes – there’s no hard and fast rule about the size, but you’ll want something that suits your own proportions.

The breast pocket is almost never given precise measurements – it’s definitely more of an artistic matter. Generally speaking, this one is about 5 inches wide, with the left side about 1 1/2″ from the armscye. It should be angled roughly as shown, and around the level of the second buttonhole. The height should be 3/4 to 1 graduated inch, it’s really up to personal preference.

Finally, at the neck, make a mark 3/4 graduated inches to the left of the main construction line. This basically represents the center front (technically it’s an additional 1/4 graduated inch over), and will be the point the collar ends at. You’ll want to make sure to transfer this mark to your fabric pieces when you cut them out.

Seam Allowances

For the seam allowances, we need to add 2 1/2 graduated inches to the front edge (or 3″ if your fabric frays a lot). Then add 1/2″ (regular inches) to the neck, shoulder, armsyce, side seam, and hem. Cut out the pattern when you are finished.

To draft your Inverness Cape pattern, you’ll need to print out the graduated ruler corresponding to your chest size, available below. So if you’re a size 40 chest, you’ll want to print out the size 40 ruler, and so on. More instructions in the video below.

There are three versions of the ruler to print out, choose which option works best for you. For home printing, there is a letter sized version (US) and an A4 version (EU) for printing on a home printer – you’ll have some of the larger rulers cut off but they still work just fine. There’s also a larger 11×17 version for printing at a print shop.

Either way, you need to make sure the 37 1/2 size ruler is printed at 37 1/2″ by comparing it to a regular ruler after printing. This will ensure that the rulers are all printed at the correct size.

Letter Size for printing at home

A4 Size for printing at home in Europe

11 x 17 Graduated Rulers for Print Shop

Measuring for the Inverness Cape is extremely easy. As the cape is so full, I’d recommend just measuring over a modern clothing. It’s possible to measure yourself but I recommend having someone measure you for best results.

Chest

The first measurement is the chest. Simply measure over a shirt around the fullest part of your chest, keeping the tape horizontal.

Back Length

This measurement determines the overall length of the garment. Measure from the nape of the neck / bottom of a shirt collar, down the center of the back to the desired length, usually just below the knees or mid calf.

Length of Cape

Finally, you’ll need to measure the desired length of the cape in the front. Measure from the neck bone down the center to a point level with your knuckles.

Here’s a brief list and discussion about all of the materials you’ll need for your Inverness Cape project. You’ll need the drafting supplies and muslin first, and the rest of the materials about a month into the class.

For Drafting

Pattern Paper

I like to use 36″ wide poster paper, usually available at office supply stores, hobby stores, and the like. It’s not too thick so you can see through it to trace patterns if necessary.

Quilting Ruler

A quilting ruler is necessary for squaring out the various construction lines in the pattern. It’s also indispensable for adding seam allowances. Available from craft and sewing stores.

Pencil

While I’ll be demonstrating the drafting process with a pen for clarity, I recommend drafting all of your patterns with a good sharp pencil. I like the #2H drawing pencils as they’re a little harder and maintain their sharpness longer.

Fabric and Materials

4 – 6 yards cotton muslin

The cotton muslin is used for fitting the Inverness Cape and helping to determine fabric amounts. While the cape is not really a fitted garment, it’s still a good idea to go through and make a toile in cheaper fabric just to avoid any major errors and get a feel for how the pieces go together. I recommend 4 – 6 yards depending on your size of about 60″ wide muslin to mimic the width of the wool.

4 -6 yards wool fabric or overcoating (draft your pattern before buying to determine how much!)

There’s a wide range of woolen fabrics you could use for this project. Devere recommends in his drafting manual “dark colored meltons or waterproof cloths” for the theatre or evening wear. For traveling, he recommends “stout Pilots, Witneys, or fancy diagonals, the edges bound with braid, and the collars covered with velvet to match”. And finally he recommends tweeds in varying weights for traveling. So there are a whole lot of options.

When doing your shopping, look for heavier weight overcoatings and broadcloths, in addition to the options mentioned above. I’d say 16oz and above would work best. Here is a list of sources for wool of varying prices and quality. Wool tends to start at about $30 per yard and quickly works itself up in cost.

• Burnley and Trowbridge
• B. Black & Sons
• Hainsworth
• Renaissance Fabrics
• Etsy and ebay

2 yards silk or cotton sateen for cape lining

I recommend lining the cape at least to make moving your arms a lot easier. Unlined, the wool tends to catch on your sleeves and get in the way a bit. You want something smooth like silk taffeta or cotton sateen. The sources under wool above should have something suitable.

Body Lining

Devere recommends an Alpaca lining which is basically impossible to find these days. If you’re going to line your cape’s body I recommend a lighter weight wool from the above sources. Or you can simply not line it at all. Another option is to line it with the same cotton sateen as the cape, or with a cotton homespun for a more rustic look.

1 yard brown polished cotton

This material is used for the pocket bags and is very close to what was used in the original garments of the period. As far as I know it’s only available from Needle and Thread in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. You’ll have to call them at (717) 334-4011 to order. Another option is to look for cotton pocketing or silesia, available from Bias Bespoke and probably other sources online.

1 yard linen collar canvas

Collar canvas is used to stiffen the collar and help keep its shape over time. You’ll need about 1/4 yard, though it’s only available in one yard increments. I highly recommend the canvas from Bias Bespoke.

Thread

I like to use Gutermann silk thread when working with wool as it has a bit of a give to it that compliments the wool nicely. I’d say 200 – 300 yards for the Inverness Cape. Available online and local sewing stores.

Silk Buttonhole Twist

You’ll need a special silk buttonhole twist thread for the buttonholes. I’ve used and recommend the Gutermann silk twist, but also found this Trebizond silk twist from France that looks promising. If you can find the small spools, you’ll need 20 yards / meters, otherwise you’ll be stuck with a bigger spool.

Buttons

You’ll need 4 buttons of about 1″ inch” in diameter, and 3 smaller buttons for the cape at about 5/8″ to 3/4″ in size. I recommend these horn buttons from Bias Bespoke but you can also find original buttons from antique stores and such that might be worth looking for.

Drafting the cape is relatively straight forward. Begin with a vertical baseline and mark the following points using your graduated ruler.

• 0 to 1 1/2 graduated inches.
• 0 to 3 graduated inches.
• 3 to B is your cape length to measure.
• Measure from 0 to B and divide in half to find point C.

Square Out

Square out the following points. A few of the lines we don’t know the length for yet, so just extend them a little longer than you’ll need (or extend them as necessary later on).

• From 0 mark 4 and 5 graduated inches. Extend the line farther.
• From 1 1/2 mark 3 1/2 and 11 graduated inches.
• Square out from C.
• Square out from B about 4 graduated inches.

Sweeping the Bottom Curve

Sweeping the bottom curve is probably the trickiest part of the draft. You basically need a large compass to make that quarter circle. The easiest way to do this is to tie a length of string or thread around a pencil. Hold the string in place with your finger at point 5. Then place the pencil at point 4 at the bottom, ensuring the string is taught. Then just use the string like a compass and draw in the quarter circle as shown.

I’ll try to put up a video of this as soon as possible.

Cape Width

Draw a gentle curve from point 4 through 11, to where the line from point C intersects the quarter circle. This gives you the recommended with of the cape. You could make this a few inches narrower but I find it begins to restrict arm movement, or you could make a very full quarter circle cape if you’d like (and have extra fabric just laying around!).

Draw in the curve for the neck from 3 through 3 1/2 to 4.

Button Fly

Measure out 1 1/2 graduated inches from 3 and from B. Connect the two new points with a vertical line, forming the button fly area.

About 3/4″ from the top of the button fly, mark the position of the top buttonhole. The width depends on the size of your buttonhole but 3/4″ is a good starting point.

Mark two buttonholes below the top one, about 8 1/2 graduated inches apart. You may need to adjust these positions depending on your size, just get it roughly looking like the diagram.

Finally, make a mark on the neck line 3/4 graduated inches to the left of the construction line, denoting the center front. The collar will end here and this should line up with the corresponding point on the front piece during construction.

Seam Allowances

The front edge of the cape will be folded back on itself to form a fly front, so you’ll need to add allowance of 1 1/2 graduated inches plus 1/2″ seam allowance there. Add an additional 1/2″ if your fabric frays a lot so you can turn it under.

Add a 1/2″ seam allowance along the neck, side, and bottom edges of the cape.

Cut out the cape pattern.