Federal Enlisted Frock Coat

Mark the button placement on the right side of the coat. I like to do this by laying the right side on to the left so that the buttonholes are just visible. Then I simply mark the corresponding spot on the row of stitching. Beginning with the waist seam button, sew the button on as …

Now we are going to finish the inner edge of the collar. Begin by cutting a piece of wool using your collar pattern, seam allowances included. Next cut off the seam allowance from the pattern, and cut a piece of canvas. You want it to be just slightly larger than the finished pattern, so cut …

Original frock coats of the period had hooks and eyes on the skirts, and at the collar. I’m not sure exactly what the skirt hooks and eyes were used for. My theory is either to get them out of the way when sitting, or during long marches to try to keep cooler. When hooked together, …

At the bottom edge of the front skirt, close off the facing by stitching it to the front of the coat with a buttonhole stitch, using silk twist. This is a part of the coat that may get extra wear and tear, so the extra strength is good. At the back skirts, trim off the …

There are just a few odds and ends left on the coat to finish. First baste the remaining unfinished lining down to the collar piping, using a basting diagonal stitch. Use black silk for this so that it will be invisible if the collar ends up not completely covering it. The stitches should be about …

Along the right side of the coat, from the waist seam, to half an inch below the collar, and half an inch from the edge, chalk a line using black chalk. Top stitch with a machine, or by side stitching if sewing by hand, along this line. This will help bind the layers together, making …

Press the top edge of the sleeve lining over to the wrong side, using a 1⁄4 inch seam. Place shirring stitches along the top of the sleeve head. I only did one row, but feel free to do all three rows if you need more control. Baste the bottom edge of the lining to the …

Setting the sleeves can be tricky at first, but there are a couple of steps we can take to make things easier. Due to the amount of ease put in Devere’s sleeves, and the weight of the fabric used, it is difficult to ease in the fabric nicely without some help. Begin by making three …

We’ll now begin constructing and inserting the sleeve linings. These are cut from the same pattern as the sleeve, however some additional allowances need to be made on the seams. On the front and rear seams, add 1/8 of an inch to the seam allowance. At the very top at the sleevehead on both pieces, …