In our day and age, it is somewhat rare to find a man with measurements corresponding to Devere’s proportionate man, that is to say a chest of 37.5 inches and a waist of about 30 inches. For that lucky one with the proportional measurements, the waist line is drawn basically square across, or perhaps lowered by an 1/2 graduated inch. This is what is illustrated in my drafting instructions, as well.
For a man with a thinner waist, your Front measurement will be slightly shorter than the proportional 1/2″, resulting in a waist that slopes downwards at the front.
And for a man with a stout waist, as all too many of us have with all of that relaxed muscle, the Front measurement will be greater than the proportional, resulting in a waist that slopes upward, sometimes 2″ or more above the side seam construction line.
Here is a table giving the rough measurements that the waistline might be moved upwards or downwards corresponding to the size of the waist (half waist). You should compare this to the Front measurement you took and see how well things line up on your draft. If something is wildly off, this is a good place to check.
|Waist of||14″||or less,||require a slope of||3/4″||downwards.|
|Waist of||15″||or less,||require a slope of||1/2″||downwards.|
|Waist of||16″||or less,||require a slope of||1/4″||downwards.|
|Waist of||17″||or less,||require the waist||drawn||square.|
|Waist of||18″||or less,||require a slope of||1/4″||upwards.|
|Waist of||19″||or less,||require a slope of||1/2″||upwards.|
|Waist of||20″||or less,||require a slope of||3/4″||upwards.|
|Waist of||21″||or less,||require a slope of||1″||upwards.|
|Waist of||22″||or less,||require a slope of||1 1/4″||upwards.|
|Waist of||23″||or less,||require a slope of||1 1/2″||upwards.|
|Waist of||24″||or less,||require a slope of||1 3/4″||upwards.|
|Waist of||25″||or less,||require a slope of||2″||upwards.|
|Waist of||26″||or less,||require a slope of||2 1/4″||upwards.|
|Waist of||27″||or less,||require a slope of||2 1/2″||upwards.|
To apply this to your draft, you’ll simply take your front measurement and use that as the starting point of your waist line, sloping down or up to the construction line made by the side seam measurement. Then the rest of the pattern is drawn as usual based on this waist line.
Here’s an illustration giving many of the possible options so you can see how the pattern changes as the waist becomes thinner or stouter.
For men with very large stomachs, you may need to add a little roundness to the front of the fly, as shown.
|Adjust your trousers for waist size.|
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