Historical Tailoring Masterclasses
Historical Tailoring Masterclasses
I like to transfer the darts to the remaining side of the forepart by just tracing them with the original pattern, rather than using the tailor’s tacks. It seems to be a little more accurate, and quicker as well. Fold each of the darts in half, aligning the sides as closely as you can. Shown …
It’s time to final begin cutting and constructing the waistcoat! Lay your forepart pattern piece on the doubled fabric, aligning the grain lines with the edge of the fabric. I use a quilting ruler to aid in this. Ideally you’d have your pattern laid out closer to the edge to save fabric – I was …
With the pattern finalized as best you can, it’s time to prepare a muslin toile for the first fitting. The toile is important not only to help with the fitting, but to work out any errors in the pattern you may have introduced and get you more familiar with the construction process. Begin by laying …
There’s one last little detail to take care of on the pattern before moving on to the toile. The way the pattern is designed, you’ll be left with two little points at the bottom front of the waistcoat if you don’t trim them. The easiest way is to make a quick copy of your waistcoat …
When you’re happy with any alterations, trace each of the pattern pieces onto a fresh sheet of paper. This way you can maintain your original pattern for future use and alterations. Add a 1/4″ or 3/8″ seam allowance around the entire collar – I’m using 3/8″ due to how easily the silk fabric frays. Similar …
Before moving on to adding the seam allowances, it’s a good idea to check your pattern as best you can for fit, by applying your own measurements to the pattern as shown, comparing them, and then making the changes as necessary. I also like to compare the lengths of the center back, though that isn’t specifically …
It’s helpful to draft the back of the waistcoat so that it’s aligned with the front piece, to more easily check for accuracy and check measurements. Extend the waist line at 10 1/4 over to the right far enough to make room for the back. Then square up the main construction line from there and …
We’re not quite done with drafting the front – still need to add a couple of darts, draft the collar, and figure out the position of the buttons, buttonholes, and pockets. Neck Seam Dart Adding a dart along the neck seam helps the collar to stay in position as well as takes out some of …
Drafting this style of waistcoat is definitely a bit complicated, but hopefully I’ve broken the steps down clearly for you. All points are measured out using the size of graduated ruler closest to your chest size. Main Construction Line Begin by drawing a vertical line and marking out the following points, measuring from 0 for …
Before we can begin drafting our waistcoat pattern, it is necessary to take a few measurements to ensure a good period fit. While a few of the measurements will seem familiar to you, Devere uses some special measurements based on the ‘center point’, which forms the basis for the entire system. Just take things step …
