To draft your Inverness Cape pattern, you’ll need to print out the graduated ruler corresponding to your chest size, available below. So if you’re a size 40 chest, you’ll want to print out the size 40 ruler, and so on. More instructions in the video below.

There are three versions of the ruler to print out, choose which option works best for you. For home printing, there is a letter sized version (US) and an A4 version (EU) for printing on a home printer – you’ll have some of the larger rulers cut off but they still work just fine. There’s also a larger 11×17 version for printing at a print shop.

Either way, you need to make sure the 37 1/2 size ruler is printed at 37 1/2″ by comparing it to a regular ruler after printing. This will ensure that the rulers are all printed at the correct size.

Letter Size for printing at home

A4 Size for printing at home in Europe

11 x 17 Graduated Rulers for Print Shop

Measuring for the Inverness Cape is extremely easy. As the cape is so full, I’d recommend just measuring over a modern clothing. It’s possible to measure yourself but I recommend having someone measure you for best results.

Chest

The first measurement is the chest. Simply measure over a shirt around the fullest part of your chest, keeping the tape horizontal.

Back Length

This measurement determines the overall length of the garment. Measure from the nape of the neck / bottom of a shirt collar, down the center of the back to the desired length, usually just below the knees or mid calf.

Length of Cape

Finally, you’ll need to measure the desired length of the cape in the front. Measure from the neck bone down the center to a point level with your knuckles.

Here’s a brief list and discussion about all of the materials you’ll need for your Inverness Cape project. You’ll need the drafting supplies and muslin first, and the rest of the materials about a month into the class.

For Drafting

Pattern Paper

I like to use 36″ wide poster paper, usually available at office supply stores, hobby stores, and the like. It’s not too thick so you can see through it to trace patterns if necessary.

Quilting Ruler

A quilting ruler is necessary for squaring out the various construction lines in the pattern. It’s also indispensable for adding seam allowances. Available from craft and sewing stores.

Pencil

While I’ll be demonstrating the drafting process with a pen for clarity, I recommend drafting all of your patterns with a good sharp pencil. I like the #2H drawing pencils as they’re a little harder and maintain their sharpness longer.

Fabric and Materials

4 – 6 yards cotton muslin

The cotton muslin is used for fitting the Inverness Cape and helping to determine fabric amounts. While the cape is not really a fitted garment, it’s still a good idea to go through and make a toile in cheaper fabric just to avoid any major errors and get a feel for how the pieces go together. I recommend 4 – 6 yards depending on your size of about 60″ wide muslin to mimic the width of the wool.

4 -6 yards wool fabric or overcoating (draft your pattern before buying to determine how much!)

There’s a wide range of woolen fabrics you could use for this project. Devere recommends in his drafting manual “dark colored meltons or waterproof cloths” for the theatre or evening wear. For traveling, he recommends “stout Pilots, Witneys, or fancy diagonals, the edges bound with braid, and the collars covered with velvet to match”. And finally he recommends tweeds in varying weights for traveling. So there are a whole lot of options.

When doing your shopping, look for heavier weight overcoatings and broadcloths, in addition to the options mentioned above. I’d say 16oz and above would work best. Here is a list of sources for wool of varying prices and quality. Wool tends to start at about $30 per yard and quickly works itself up in cost.

• Burnley and Trowbridge
• B. Black & Sons
• Hainsworth
• Renaissance Fabrics
• Etsy and ebay

2 yards silk or cotton sateen for cape lining

I recommend lining the cape at least to make moving your arms a lot easier. Unlined, the wool tends to catch on your sleeves and get in the way a bit. You want something smooth like silk taffeta or cotton sateen. The sources under wool above should have something suitable.

Body Lining

Devere recommends an Alpaca lining which is basically impossible to find these days. If you’re going to line your cape’s body I recommend a lighter weight wool from the above sources. Or you can simply not line it at all. Another option is to line it with the same cotton sateen as the cape, or with a cotton homespun for a more rustic look.

1 yard brown polished cotton

This material is used for the pocket bags and is very close to what was used in the original garments of the period. As far as I know it’s only available from Needle and Thread in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. You’ll have to call them at (717) 334-4011 to order. Another option is to look for cotton pocketing or silesia, available from Bias Bespoke and probably other sources online.

1 yard linen collar canvas

Collar canvas is used to stiffen the collar and help keep its shape over time. You’ll need about 1/4 yard, though it’s only available in one yard increments. I highly recommend the canvas from Bias Bespoke.

Thread

I like to use Gutermann silk thread when working with wool as it has a bit of a give to it that compliments the wool nicely. I’d say 200 – 300 yards for the Inverness Cape. Available online and local sewing stores.

Silk Buttonhole Twist

You’ll need a special silk buttonhole twist thread for the buttonholes. I’ve used and recommend the Gutermann silk twist, but also found this Trebizond silk twist from France that looks promising. If you can find the small spools, you’ll need 20 yards / meters, otherwise you’ll be stuck with a bigger spool.

Buttons

You’ll need 4 buttons of about 1″ inch” in diameter, and 3 smaller buttons for the cape at about 5/8″ to 3/4″ in size. I recommend these horn buttons from Bias Bespoke but you can also find original buttons from antique stores and such that might be worth looking for.

Drafting the cape is relatively straight forward. Begin with a vertical baseline and mark the following points using your graduated ruler.

• 0 to 1 1/2 graduated inches.
• 0 to 3 graduated inches.
• 3 to B is your cape length to measure.
• Measure from 0 to B and divide in half to find point C.

Square Out

Square out the following points. A few of the lines we don’t know the length for yet, so just extend them a little longer than you’ll need (or extend them as necessary later on).

• From 0 mark 4 and 5 graduated inches. Extend the line farther.
• From 1 1/2 mark 3 1/2 and 11 graduated inches.
• Square out from C.
• Square out from B about 4 graduated inches.

Sweeping the Bottom Curve

Sweeping the bottom curve is probably the trickiest part of the draft. You basically need a large compass to make that quarter circle. The easiest way to do this is to tie a length of string or thread around a pencil. Hold the string in place with your finger at point 5. Then place the pencil at point 4 at the bottom, ensuring the string is taught. Then just use the string like a compass and draw in the quarter circle as shown.

I’ll try to put up a video of this as soon as possible.

Cape Width

Draw a gentle curve from point 4 through 11, to where the line from point C intersects the quarter circle. This gives you the recommended with of the cape. You could make this a few inches narrower but I find it begins to restrict arm movement, or you could make a very full quarter circle cape if you’d like (and have extra fabric just laying around!).

Draw in the curve for the neck from 3 through 3 1/2 to 4.

Button Fly

Measure out 1 1/2 graduated inches from 3 and from B. Connect the two new points with a vertical line, forming the button fly area.

About 3/4″ from the top of the button fly, mark the position of the top buttonhole. The width depends on the size of your buttonhole but 3/4″ is a good starting point.

Mark two buttonholes below the top one, about 8 1/2 graduated inches apart. You may need to adjust these positions depending on your size, just get it roughly looking like the diagram.

Finally, make a mark on the neck line 3/4 graduated inches to the left of the construction line, denoting the center front. The collar will end here and this should line up with the corresponding point on the front piece during construction.

Seam Allowances

The front edge of the cape will be folded back on itself to form a fly front, so you’ll need to add allowance of 1 1/2 graduated inches plus 1/2″ seam allowance there. Add an additional 1/2″ if your fabric frays a lot so you can turn it under.

Add a 1/2″ seam allowance along the neck, side, and bottom edges of the cape.

Cut out the cape pattern.