The remaining breast pocket is constructed in the same manner as the other pockets, but the angle is a little steeper, so I thought I’d show a few little details to help you out.

Here I’ve transferred the stripes to the pattern piece. The lack of a dart in this area makes it a little easier to match the stripes, though the bias cut negates that a bit.

Here I’ve basted in the pocket welt and the upper pocket bag. I like to cut the pocket bags for these angled pockets a lot wider than I need them, so that I don’t have to figure out the exact angle of the pocket bag, which is much more prone to error. By cutting them larger, the angles can simply be drawn in later and the pocket bag trimmed to size.

Be careful when basting in the pocket welt – since it’s cut on the bias, it has a tendency to want to stretch out of place.

My stripes ended up being ever so slightly off, about 1/32″ at most.

After sewing in the lower pocket bag, you can determine the angle of the pocket itself. I’m keeping my lines about an inch away from the pocket bag seam line, they’ll be trimmed more closely later after sewing the bag closed. The lines should be vertical.

Trim the pocket bag on either side.

Now taper the pocket bag with two cuts, right to the ends of the stitching on the pocket welt. They’ll be a bit larger and deeper compared to the lower pockets, due to the extra fabric we still have, and the angles involved.

With the pocket bag trimmed, you can pass it through to the inside of the waistcoat.

Lay the other bag on top, and draw in the pocket bag seam lines, beginning and ending at the ends of the pocket welt. I tend to make these pockets about 3 inches deep, the bottom edge slightly slanted towards the center front. Curve the lower corners of the pocket as well. Before sewing, double check that the lines you’ve drawn overlap the pocket bag below.

Sew the pocket bag closed and trim the seam allowance to 1/4″.

And here’s the completed breast pocket. The ends will be tacked down after the canvas is installed.